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Monaco is best done in one glamorous evening: an aperitivo in the golden light, a long dinner, and a late walk past the casino. Wear the dress. This is not the place to underdress.
First
APERITIVO AT GOLDEN HOUR
CAFÉ DE PARIS
On Place du Casino — the classic terrace for watching the evening arrive.
LE BAR AMÉRICAIN
Inside the Hôtel de Paris; dark, old-world, and the martinis are serious.
THE PORT WALK
Come up from Port Hercule as the lights come on — the best free show in Monaco.
Then
DINNER WITH A VIEW
LE LOUIS XV
Alain Ducasse's three stars — the once-in-a-trip splurge, book far ahead.
CIPRIANI MONTE-CARLO
Lively, glossy, and reliably great — the safer reservation for a group.
MAYA BAY
Thai-Japanese and surprisingly relaxed — when you want great food without the ceremony.
Late
THE CASINO HOUR
CASINO DE MONTE-CARLO
Even if you don't play, walk the atrium. Jacket required, photos before midnight.
OPÉRA DE MONTE-CARLO
Check the calendar — a short performance turns the evening into an occasion.
ONE LAST LOOK
The Casino Square fountains at midnight, when the crowds thin. Then home.
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